I talk a lot at the table. I like meeting people, and poker tournaments give me the opportunity to chat with a lot of nice folks. The conversations I have between hands are not just pleasant - they can also be informative. What a player shares about himself will often determine how I'll play against him down the line.
For example, say I'm playing in a $10,000 tournament. I ask the young person to my left how he bought into the tournament and he tells me that he won a $30 satellite. Based on that piece of information, I can make some assumptions. He's probably not especially experienced. Most active players don't bother with low buy-in tournaments. He likely doesn't have a huge bankroll, so he'd probably be perfectly happy to cash in the event; he doesn't need to win to feel he had a successful tournament.
Against this player, I'm probably going to run some bluffs when I think he's only got a moderate hand. I'm also going to be willing to make some pretty big lay-downs against this guy. I seriously doubt he's going to put in a lot chips without a very strong hand.
Now imagine that I ask a man at my table how he got into the tournament and he tells me he bought in directly. I ask him what he does for a living, and he says he's a bookmaker in Dallas.
I've got to assume that this guy's willing to gamble. He's probably not afraid of a big bluff or a big call. Against him, I'm going to have to call more liberally and avoid making any of my own big bluffs. I may even check some reasonably big hands to avoid getting raised off my hand.
These are just two examples of what you can learn by drawing your opponents out and listening carefully to what they have to say. Every piece of information you gain at the table is something you can use to your advantage.
Gavin Smith
Saturday, May 5, 2007
Saturday, April 28, 2007
Chris Ferguson from Zero- $10,000
I'm almost a year into an experiment on Full Tilt Poker. I'm attempting to turn $0 into a $10,000 bankroll. With no money to start with, I had no choice but to start out playing Freerolls. Starting out, I'd often manage to win a dollar or two, but I'd quickly get busted and have to start over again. It took some time but, after awhile, I was eventually able to graduate to games that required an actual buy-in.
Even today, people don't believe it's really me when I sit down at Full Tilt's small stakes games. They ask what I'm doing down here, and often tell me stories about how they turned $5 into $500 or $100 into $1,000. Usually, these stories end with the person telling me that they went broke. There's no surprise there. These folks tried to quickly build a bankroll by gambling. They'd play in a game that was beyond their bankroll and, if they happened to win, they'd move up to a higher limit and risk it all one more time. Inevitably, they'd lose a few big hands and go broke.
For me, this experiment isn't about the money. It's about showing how, with proper bankroll management, you can start from nothing and move up to the point where you're playing in some pretty big games. I know it's possible because I did it once before, turning $1 into $20,000.
To ensure that I keep my bankroll intact, I've adopted some key rules:
* I'll never buy into a cash game or a Sit & Go with more than 5 percent of my total bankroll (there is an exception for the lowest limits: I'm allowed to buy into any game with a buy-in of $2.50 or less).
* I won't buy into a multi-table tournament for more than 2 percent of my total bankroll and I'm allowed to buy into any multi-table tournament that costs $1.
* If at any time during a No-Limit or Pot-Limit cash-game session the money on the table represents more than 10 percent of my total bankroll, I must leave the game when the blinds reach me.
I think a lot of players would do well to apply these rules. One great benefit from this approach to bankroll management is that it ensures you'll be playing in games you can afford. You'll never play for very long in a game that's over your head because, when you're losing, you'll have no choice but to drop down to a smaller game. You can continue to sharpen your game at that lower limit until your bankroll allows you to move up and take another shot. These rules also prevent you from being completely decimated by a bad run of cards.
Dropping down and playing lower limits is difficult for a lot of players. They view it as a failure and their egos get in the way. Many want to remain at the level they'd been playing and win back their losses. But this can lead to some pretty severe tilt - and that can go through a bankroll in a hurry. I know that dropping down was difficult for me in my run from $1 to $20,000. When I first played in the $25/$50 game, I lost. Sticking to my rules, I dropped down to the $10/$25 game. I had a losing streak there and had to go down to $5/$10. That was tough. After playing $25/$50, a $5/$10 game was boring to me.
But I had the discipline to stick to my rules, and that motivated me to play better at the lower levels. I really didn't want to lose any more because I knew the consequences: I'd have to play even lower and work even harder to get back to where I'd been, which could take as long as a month. If you ever find yourself bored or frustrated playing at the lower limits, you're obviously not playing well. Take a break from the game. Often, stepping away can give you a fresh perspective and heightened motivation to play well when you return.
There are a couple of more tips I'd like to share regarding bankroll management. First, you should never play in a game that is beyond your bankroll simply because the game seems to be soft that day. It's never soft enough to risk money that puts your bankroll in jeopardy. The other point is that you should avoid playing in games that are at the top of your bankroll limits, when a lower game offers more opportunity for profit.
I'm confident that by sticking to these sound bankroll management rules, I'll make it to my $10,000 goal. These rules are sure to help you as well, as you pursue your own poker ambitions. So, if you want to start your own quest - or play against me while I'm continuing with mine - come open a free account at Full Tilt Poker and look for me online. But hurry, because I'm hoping I won't be in the lower limits for too much longer.
Chris Ferguson
Even today, people don't believe it's really me when I sit down at Full Tilt's small stakes games. They ask what I'm doing down here, and often tell me stories about how they turned $5 into $500 or $100 into $1,000. Usually, these stories end with the person telling me that they went broke. There's no surprise there. These folks tried to quickly build a bankroll by gambling. They'd play in a game that was beyond their bankroll and, if they happened to win, they'd move up to a higher limit and risk it all one more time. Inevitably, they'd lose a few big hands and go broke.
For me, this experiment isn't about the money. It's about showing how, with proper bankroll management, you can start from nothing and move up to the point where you're playing in some pretty big games. I know it's possible because I did it once before, turning $1 into $20,000.
To ensure that I keep my bankroll intact, I've adopted some key rules:
* I'll never buy into a cash game or a Sit & Go with more than 5 percent of my total bankroll (there is an exception for the lowest limits: I'm allowed to buy into any game with a buy-in of $2.50 or less).
* I won't buy into a multi-table tournament for more than 2 percent of my total bankroll and I'm allowed to buy into any multi-table tournament that costs $1.
* If at any time during a No-Limit or Pot-Limit cash-game session the money on the table represents more than 10 percent of my total bankroll, I must leave the game when the blinds reach me.
I think a lot of players would do well to apply these rules. One great benefit from this approach to bankroll management is that it ensures you'll be playing in games you can afford. You'll never play for very long in a game that's over your head because, when you're losing, you'll have no choice but to drop down to a smaller game. You can continue to sharpen your game at that lower limit until your bankroll allows you to move up and take another shot. These rules also prevent you from being completely decimated by a bad run of cards.
Dropping down and playing lower limits is difficult for a lot of players. They view it as a failure and their egos get in the way. Many want to remain at the level they'd been playing and win back their losses. But this can lead to some pretty severe tilt - and that can go through a bankroll in a hurry. I know that dropping down was difficult for me in my run from $1 to $20,000. When I first played in the $25/$50 game, I lost. Sticking to my rules, I dropped down to the $10/$25 game. I had a losing streak there and had to go down to $5/$10. That was tough. After playing $25/$50, a $5/$10 game was boring to me.
But I had the discipline to stick to my rules, and that motivated me to play better at the lower levels. I really didn't want to lose any more because I knew the consequences: I'd have to play even lower and work even harder to get back to where I'd been, which could take as long as a month. If you ever find yourself bored or frustrated playing at the lower limits, you're obviously not playing well. Take a break from the game. Often, stepping away can give you a fresh perspective and heightened motivation to play well when you return.
There are a couple of more tips I'd like to share regarding bankroll management. First, you should never play in a game that is beyond your bankroll simply because the game seems to be soft that day. It's never soft enough to risk money that puts your bankroll in jeopardy. The other point is that you should avoid playing in games that are at the top of your bankroll limits, when a lower game offers more opportunity for profit.
I'm confident that by sticking to these sound bankroll management rules, I'll make it to my $10,000 goal. These rules are sure to help you as well, as you pursue your own poker ambitions. So, if you want to start your own quest - or play against me while I'm continuing with mine - come open a free account at Full Tilt Poker and look for me online. But hurry, because I'm hoping I won't be in the lower limits for too much longer.
Chris Ferguson
Thursday, April 12, 2007
$$ POKER GREED $$
Well, I bet you can say that I am somewhat absolutely F'n pissed off! and I will tell you a great poker story about a certain Asshole that has Greed and stupidity written all over them. Its an age old story of Human Nature and GREED, pure and simple!
I owned a poker skin with a certain network and then switched to become partners with another skin owner on the same network! I would eventually run my forums Private Play Money Poker Tour games thru this skin while giving away my own money to all of my playing members. As my player member base grew on this network because of the direct efforts of myself, my forum partner Betty and my playing members. We grew from about 20 players to over 100 players in the span of 3 months. This whole time the actual skin owner was too F'n busy to be bothered with the whole thing! And was really doing nothing himself.
I decided to go back to my own skin and take only our own playing members whom by the way we had worked hard at recruiting. This has caused an absolute nightmare because all of a sudden this Idiot decides, we cant do that because you are his members!
Well I'm here to tell you. ***********PISS OFF GMAN.********
You are nothing but a Greedy ass lame Mf'n idiot! Don't ever come around my neighborhood of mess with my players because every single one of us will be leaving your Lame ASS Poker Skin and Site.
I do want to apologize to the actual Network Server and the support Team whose hands are tied, and I will just take my players to our new server since there is no Friggin way I or my players will stay there.
We will move on to better things because we don't have time to piss around with any of it. There are plenty of other poker sites out there !
OOPS- Did I say That out loud!!!!!
Masala
I owned a poker skin with a certain network and then switched to become partners with another skin owner on the same network! I would eventually run my forums Private Play Money Poker Tour games thru this skin while giving away my own money to all of my playing members. As my player member base grew on this network because of the direct efforts of myself, my forum partner Betty and my playing members. We grew from about 20 players to over 100 players in the span of 3 months. This whole time the actual skin owner was too F'n busy to be bothered with the whole thing! And was really doing nothing himself.
I decided to go back to my own skin and take only our own playing members whom by the way we had worked hard at recruiting. This has caused an absolute nightmare because all of a sudden this Idiot decides, we cant do that because you are his members!
Well I'm here to tell you. ***********PISS OFF GMAN.********
You are nothing but a Greedy ass lame Mf'n idiot! Don't ever come around my neighborhood of mess with my players because every single one of us will be leaving your Lame ASS Poker Skin and Site.
I do want to apologize to the actual Network Server and the support Team whose hands are tied, and I will just take my players to our new server since there is no Friggin way I or my players will stay there.
We will move on to better things because we don't have time to piss around with any of it. There are plenty of other poker sites out there !
OOPS- Did I say That out loud!!!!!
Masala
Monday, April 9, 2007
The New PokerMatesNZ Poker Room
G'Day Mates
My website PokermatesNZ.com has now acquired Our very own Poker Skin called "PokerMatesNZ Poker Room" We have gone out on our own with our site soon to become a fully branded site on the PokerDream network.
We run a Play Money Points Tour for the members of our website who belong to the poker skin. You can win REAL Money at these games in the form of Real Money Bounties and the winner of each game receives Real money as well! We play these games 3 times a week with a new Points Tour round starting this Wednesday, April 11th at (9pm) New Zealand Time. We would also like to have a USA timezone Points Tour if we had interested players/members in this timezone.
All the information about these points tours can be found in our Forum at our website www.pokermatesnz.com
Why not come and join us and win Real money for absolutely no risk to your wallet.
Cheers......................Masala
My website PokermatesNZ.com has now acquired Our very own Poker Skin called "PokerMatesNZ Poker Room" We have gone out on our own with our site soon to become a fully branded site on the PokerDream network.
We run a Play Money Points Tour for the members of our website who belong to the poker skin. You can win REAL Money at these games in the form of Real Money Bounties and the winner of each game receives Real money as well! We play these games 3 times a week with a new Points Tour round starting this Wednesday, April 11th at (9pm) New Zealand Time. We would also like to have a USA timezone Points Tour if we had interested players/members in this timezone.
All the information about these points tours can be found in our Forum at our website www.pokermatesnz.com
Why not come and join us and win Real money for absolutely no risk to your wallet.
Cheers......................Masala
Sunday, March 25, 2007
New Zealand Live Poker Pub Leagues
Lately I have been playing weekly at some of the Live Poker Pub leagues that have been running through out New Zealand. I have placed fairly highly in some of these games but it is a real struggle playing poker with a lot of players who really don't have a clue what they are doing. Its not really poker but it is fun and they are a great bunch of people. A few of my website members have been participating in these games but the main drawback with the whole tournament setup is: They offer re buys for buying drinks, which means if you drink you can get extra chips for purchasing drinks.
I don't drink so getting extra chips for me is not really an issue. I know that is how the pub actually makes money but I would rather find a Pub league that has a buy in tournament and when your out you are out of the tournament. Now That's Poker!
I have heard that there is a poker league in New Zealand that runs a tournament like this so I am on my way to check it out! I like playing in the live games and I have found that for the most part people really don't know how to play poker properly. Most of the time the players will play with any 2 cards. You cant really bully players because they will play with Crap cards and beat you anyway!
When you make it to the final 2 tables the play will actually start to settle down to some real poker play and normally this is always the same players so you do get to know the way certain players play. Its all a great deal of fun but I am really itching to play with some top notch players in a winner take all tourny!
So if anyone hears about where the game is Please let me know?
Cheers mates..............................Masala
I don't drink so getting extra chips for me is not really an issue. I know that is how the pub actually makes money but I would rather find a Pub league that has a buy in tournament and when your out you are out of the tournament. Now That's Poker!
I have heard that there is a poker league in New Zealand that runs a tournament like this so I am on my way to check it out! I like playing in the live games and I have found that for the most part people really don't know how to play poker properly. Most of the time the players will play with any 2 cards. You cant really bully players because they will play with Crap cards and beat you anyway!
When you make it to the final 2 tables the play will actually start to settle down to some real poker play and normally this is always the same players so you do get to know the way certain players play. Its all a great deal of fun but I am really itching to play with some top notch players in a winner take all tourny!
So if anyone hears about where the game is Please let me know?
Cheers mates..............................Masala
Sunday, March 18, 2007
Running a Poker Website/Forum
G'day Mates
Today I would like to say a little bit about running a poker website/forum. First, I would like to let you all know a little bit of history about why ever even started the whole thing!
I used to just play poker online and I belonged to a few poker leagues from USA and Canada. Living in New Zealand, it became very apparent that I would never be able to be very points competitive in these leagues because of the Timezone difference. These Poker Leagues that I belonged to played games 7 days a week but because of the Timezone differences it meant that I could only play with these leagues on the weekends because during the week I would be at work while they were playing. I would do very well playing on the weekends with these guys and I would pull ahead on points only to lose all the advantage while they all played 5 more days during the week while I could not participate. They were great poker leagues with excellent players and just very nice people in general but I became very discouraged upon not being able to be points competitive.
I joined a Forum belonging to Gman and became very involved in his forum because he provided the most Poker Info that I had ever even known was available. We became good friends and I asked him how do I go about starting up a forum? he explained to me how to do it so I just jumped in and started.
Now I did not have a clue at all about what the hell I was even doing and it took me at least 3 months to kind of understand how to do webmaster stuff! I mean I only ever even started the whole thing to be able to have a Poker League of my own where I could play poker with players in my own Timezone! That's all I ever really wanted!
All I wanted was a bit of help and to be pointed in the right direction, but man this whole thing just chews up my personal time. I have some great friends and great poker members and some of them have been with me from the very beginning and have continued to stay with me even when we had less than 50 members. And I would like to just say thanks to my LOYAL MEMBERS who are always there!
I have wanted to Quit the whole damn thing so many times and just go back to playing poker! But, its my loyal members and associates that keep me going. I just don't want to let anyone down and I try my hardest to provide all the info that I can glean from anywhere!
Some other webmasters just know what to do to make a great forum and to get new members but guys like me just have to Fight and learn everything on the fly and make mistakes while all the other guys just keep getting bigger and bigger memberships. I make my money playing poker and I just give it away to my loyal members and all I want in return is for them to enjoy themselves and tell everyone they know about us.
So there is my story and I will just go back to struggling my way thru this whole damn thing!
Cheers...........................Masala
Today I would like to say a little bit about running a poker website/forum. First, I would like to let you all know a little bit of history about why ever even started the whole thing!
I used to just play poker online and I belonged to a few poker leagues from USA and Canada. Living in New Zealand, it became very apparent that I would never be able to be very points competitive in these leagues because of the Timezone difference. These Poker Leagues that I belonged to played games 7 days a week but because of the Timezone differences it meant that I could only play with these leagues on the weekends because during the week I would be at work while they were playing. I would do very well playing on the weekends with these guys and I would pull ahead on points only to lose all the advantage while they all played 5 more days during the week while I could not participate. They were great poker leagues with excellent players and just very nice people in general but I became very discouraged upon not being able to be points competitive.
I joined a Forum belonging to Gman and became very involved in his forum because he provided the most Poker Info that I had ever even known was available. We became good friends and I asked him how do I go about starting up a forum? he explained to me how to do it so I just jumped in and started.
Now I did not have a clue at all about what the hell I was even doing and it took me at least 3 months to kind of understand how to do webmaster stuff! I mean I only ever even started the whole thing to be able to have a Poker League of my own where I could play poker with players in my own Timezone! That's all I ever really wanted!
All I wanted was a bit of help and to be pointed in the right direction, but man this whole thing just chews up my personal time. I have some great friends and great poker members and some of them have been with me from the very beginning and have continued to stay with me even when we had less than 50 members. And I would like to just say thanks to my LOYAL MEMBERS who are always there!
I have wanted to Quit the whole damn thing so many times and just go back to playing poker! But, its my loyal members and associates that keep me going. I just don't want to let anyone down and I try my hardest to provide all the info that I can glean from anywhere!
Some other webmasters just know what to do to make a great forum and to get new members but guys like me just have to Fight and learn everything on the fly and make mistakes while all the other guys just keep getting bigger and bigger memberships. I make my money playing poker and I just give it away to my loyal members and all I want in return is for them to enjoy themselves and tell everyone they know about us.
So there is my story and I will just go back to struggling my way thru this whole damn thing!
Cheers...........................Masala
Saturday, March 10, 2007
Stealing Dealer Button
The dealer position (known as the "button") is the best
position at the poker table.
The reason is because when you're on the button, you get to
act LAST after the flop... giving you the chance to see what
your opponents do first.
This lets you get a "read" on your opponents at the table...
and decide who has a strong hand, who has a weak hand, who's
bluffing, and so on.
OK, so that's common knowledge.
What's also common knowledge is the fact that LATE
POSITIONING is preferred over EARLY POSITIONING... because
once again, you get to see what your opponents do first
before it's your turn to bet, raise, call, or fold.
Of course, being on the button is BETTER than just plain
late positioning... because the button GUARANTEES that you
will be LAST TO ACT post-flop.
OK, now here's what is NOT common knowledge...
Once you understand positioning and its enormous
implications, you can begin "improving" your positioning and
setting yourself up for more pots each game.
The technique is called STEALING THE BUTTON.
It's simple... it's practical... and right when you're done
reading this newsletter you can immediately start using it.
Stealing the button is LEVERAGING your late positioning when
you're NOT on the button... but getting all the same
benefits as if you WERE on the button.
Remember, the dealer position is SO POWERFUL because it
means you're LAST to act post-flop.
Being SECOND TO LAST to act isn't nearly as good, especially
considering there's usually only three or four players to a
flop at an 8-man table.
So what you do is make a reasonable pre-flop RAISE when
you're in late positioning... and therefore force the player
on the button to fold.
Having done this, you'll be last to act after the flop...
the same as if you actually were on the button. (Hence the
name, "stealing the button").
OK, let's look at an example so you can see what I'm talking
about:
Let's say you're sitting two seats to the RIGHT of the
button at a 10-man table. The game is $1-2 no limit Holdem.
Two players limp-in... and you look down at your cards:
J-9 of clubs.
I call hands like these "semi-connectors"-- they're not
quite connected... but almost.
The great thing about semi-connectors is that they're a
"hidden hand". When they HIT (straight, flush, two pair...)
your opponents NEVER see it coming.
You decide to play your Jack-9 suited. Now remember, there
are two players BEHIND you that will act post-flop if they
both call the blinds.
So it's YOUR JOB to make sure they DON'T limp-in.
The solution is to crank up the pressure...
You make it $15 to play. Nothing crazy (after all, you don't
exactly have a monster). You simply want to force the two
players to your left to FOLD... which will happen most of
the time.
Of course, they won't always fold... because sometimes
they'll pick up a big hand. But odds arethey'll fold.
The RESULT, of course, is now YOU have the button.
Well, not the button exactly... but all the advantages that
it brings.
Sure enough, the two players to your left fold, and Josh--
who's in the big blind-- is the only caller.
The flop comes out:
10h-8d-Ks
No flush possibilities for you here, but BINGO, you've just
flopped an open-ended straight draw.
This is the type of flop you hoped for.
Now it's on Josh to act first. And this is where your
positioning is so important. Not only do you get to see what
Josh does first... but you also have the CONTROL in this
situation.
Since you made the pre-flop raise, Josh will likely check
the flop to you... giving you the opportunity to play
aggressively and take down this pot.
No matter what happens after this, you've set yourself up to
win this pot. Sometimes Josh will pick up a real hand and
come out firing... but usually not.
Sure enough in our example, Josh checks.
You throw out a $30 semi-bluff. This is a bet you should
make even WITHOUT the open-ender... because you made the
pre-flop raise.
Josh mucks it, and you rake the chips... leaving the table
wondering what you had.
That's how you "steal" the button. It's a simple, surefire
way to gain control at the table by improving your
positioning.
There are five main steps you need to know...
1. You need a playable hand.
If you're going to bluff, make it a "semi-bluff" by raising
with a hand that can hit... something like semi-connectors.
I personally don't like raising with 7-2 offsuit or crap
like that. It seems to me like an "ego raise" more than a
logical play.
Remember, the key is to gain that extra bit of control and
power by acting LAST after the flop.
2. Force out the player on the button (and possibly the
player to his right).
The whole point to stealing the button is to ACTUALLY STEAL
THE BUTTON. If you make a wussy raise that doesn't scare
anyone, you've failed.
If you're one seat to the right of the button, you want to
raise enough to force the player on the button out. If
you're TWO seats to the right, then you've got to force out
both players to your left.
One of the "secrets" to this process is to ALWAYS pay
attention to the pre-flop betting patterns of your opponents
on the left.
If you're sitting on the right of "Tight Tim" who only sees
flops when he's got pocket pairs, then you can steal the
button quite often.
On the other hand, if you're on the right of a LOOSE player,
you won't be able to steal the button nearly as much.
So pay attention.
3. After the flop, your opponents will usually check to you.
Notice if someone bets into you, beware. That's a red flag.
Usually players will check into you since you raised
pre-flop.
When players check into you that gives you the power to
either BET and try to steal the pot right there... OR... get
a free turn card by also checking.
While I normally recommend a bet, you can check to mix it up
once in awhile or in the case that you're getting
short-stacked.
4. Don't get pot-committed.
Remember, stealing the button is a simple technique that
improves your position and sets you up to have a BETTER
CHANCE at winning the hand.
Don't get stupid. Don't get stubborn and bet any amount in
hopes of bluffing out someone with a real hand.
Like I said, you need a playable hand to steal the button in
the first place.
Don't become pot-committed... Never bet so much that it's
PAINFUL to fold your cards after the flop.
5. Sometimes you don't need to raise to steal the button.
Often the blinds will be high enough where you figure simply
CALLING the big blind will get you the button (this is
especially true when you're to the right of a tight player).
Also, someone in front of you might raise the pot enough
that all you have to do is CALL THE RAISE and you'll get the
button.
OK, so that's the process...
Here are the two types of situations where you DO want to
steal the button...
DO STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:
1. You sense weakness and want to steal the pot on a bluff
or hidden hand.
2. You have a good hand that you want to play post-flop.
On the other hand...
DO NOT STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:
1. You have a poor hand and you sense someone else has a
strong hand.
2. You think someone to your left will call a raise no
matter what (that defeats the purpose).
The MOST IMPORTANT lesson you can get from all this is to
realize that winning poker depends on ALL THE LITTLE THINGS.
Stealing the button is just a little technique for setting
yourself up for better positioning... it's not a "game
changing" strategy that will double your poker profits or
anything.
But when you combine it with ALL THE OTHER LITTLE THINGS--
like establishing the right table image, throwing out feeler
bets, representing the flop at the right times, buying free
cards, picking up betting patterns, spotting tells, and
more-- then you will become a DYNAMIC and POWERFUL poker
player...
AND THEN your poker profits will double.
position at the poker table.
The reason is because when you're on the button, you get to
act LAST after the flop... giving you the chance to see what
your opponents do first.
This lets you get a "read" on your opponents at the table...
and decide who has a strong hand, who has a weak hand, who's
bluffing, and so on.
OK, so that's common knowledge.
What's also common knowledge is the fact that LATE
POSITIONING is preferred over EARLY POSITIONING... because
once again, you get to see what your opponents do first
before it's your turn to bet, raise, call, or fold.
Of course, being on the button is BETTER than just plain
late positioning... because the button GUARANTEES that you
will be LAST TO ACT post-flop.
OK, now here's what is NOT common knowledge...
Once you understand positioning and its enormous
implications, you can begin "improving" your positioning and
setting yourself up for more pots each game.
The technique is called STEALING THE BUTTON.
It's simple... it's practical... and right when you're done
reading this newsletter you can immediately start using it.
Stealing the button is LEVERAGING your late positioning when
you're NOT on the button... but getting all the same
benefits as if you WERE on the button.
Remember, the dealer position is SO POWERFUL because it
means you're LAST to act post-flop.
Being SECOND TO LAST to act isn't nearly as good, especially
considering there's usually only three or four players to a
flop at an 8-man table.
So what you do is make a reasonable pre-flop RAISE when
you're in late positioning... and therefore force the player
on the button to fold.
Having done this, you'll be last to act after the flop...
the same as if you actually were on the button. (Hence the
name, "stealing the button").
OK, let's look at an example so you can see what I'm talking
about:
Let's say you're sitting two seats to the RIGHT of the
button at a 10-man table. The game is $1-2 no limit Holdem.
Two players limp-in... and you look down at your cards:
J-9 of clubs.
I call hands like these "semi-connectors"-- they're not
quite connected... but almost.
The great thing about semi-connectors is that they're a
"hidden hand". When they HIT (straight, flush, two pair...)
your opponents NEVER see it coming.
You decide to play your Jack-9 suited. Now remember, there
are two players BEHIND you that will act post-flop if they
both call the blinds.
So it's YOUR JOB to make sure they DON'T limp-in.
The solution is to crank up the pressure...
You make it $15 to play. Nothing crazy (after all, you don't
exactly have a monster). You simply want to force the two
players to your left to FOLD... which will happen most of
the time.
Of course, they won't always fold... because sometimes
they'll pick up a big hand. But odds arethey'll fold.
The RESULT, of course, is now YOU have the button.
Well, not the button exactly... but all the advantages that
it brings.
Sure enough, the two players to your left fold, and Josh--
who's in the big blind-- is the only caller.
The flop comes out:
10h-8d-Ks
No flush possibilities for you here, but BINGO, you've just
flopped an open-ended straight draw.
This is the type of flop you hoped for.
Now it's on Josh to act first. And this is where your
positioning is so important. Not only do you get to see what
Josh does first... but you also have the CONTROL in this
situation.
Since you made the pre-flop raise, Josh will likely check
the flop to you... giving you the opportunity to play
aggressively and take down this pot.
No matter what happens after this, you've set yourself up to
win this pot. Sometimes Josh will pick up a real hand and
come out firing... but usually not.
Sure enough in our example, Josh checks.
You throw out a $30 semi-bluff. This is a bet you should
make even WITHOUT the open-ender... because you made the
pre-flop raise.
Josh mucks it, and you rake the chips... leaving the table
wondering what you had.
That's how you "steal" the button. It's a simple, surefire
way to gain control at the table by improving your
positioning.
There are five main steps you need to know...
1. You need a playable hand.
If you're going to bluff, make it a "semi-bluff" by raising
with a hand that can hit... something like semi-connectors.
I personally don't like raising with 7-2 offsuit or crap
like that. It seems to me like an "ego raise" more than a
logical play.
Remember, the key is to gain that extra bit of control and
power by acting LAST after the flop.
2. Force out the player on the button (and possibly the
player to his right).
The whole point to stealing the button is to ACTUALLY STEAL
THE BUTTON. If you make a wussy raise that doesn't scare
anyone, you've failed.
If you're one seat to the right of the button, you want to
raise enough to force the player on the button out. If
you're TWO seats to the right, then you've got to force out
both players to your left.
One of the "secrets" to this process is to ALWAYS pay
attention to the pre-flop betting patterns of your opponents
on the left.
If you're sitting on the right of "Tight Tim" who only sees
flops when he's got pocket pairs, then you can steal the
button quite often.
On the other hand, if you're on the right of a LOOSE player,
you won't be able to steal the button nearly as much.
So pay attention.
3. After the flop, your opponents will usually check to you.
Notice if someone bets into you, beware. That's a red flag.
Usually players will check into you since you raised
pre-flop.
When players check into you that gives you the power to
either BET and try to steal the pot right there... OR... get
a free turn card by also checking.
While I normally recommend a bet, you can check to mix it up
once in awhile or in the case that you're getting
short-stacked.
4. Don't get pot-committed.
Remember, stealing the button is a simple technique that
improves your position and sets you up to have a BETTER
CHANCE at winning the hand.
Don't get stupid. Don't get stubborn and bet any amount in
hopes of bluffing out someone with a real hand.
Like I said, you need a playable hand to steal the button in
the first place.
Don't become pot-committed... Never bet so much that it's
PAINFUL to fold your cards after the flop.
5. Sometimes you don't need to raise to steal the button.
Often the blinds will be high enough where you figure simply
CALLING the big blind will get you the button (this is
especially true when you're to the right of a tight player).
Also, someone in front of you might raise the pot enough
that all you have to do is CALL THE RAISE and you'll get the
button.
OK, so that's the process...
Here are the two types of situations where you DO want to
steal the button...
DO STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:
1. You sense weakness and want to steal the pot on a bluff
or hidden hand.
2. You have a good hand that you want to play post-flop.
On the other hand...
DO NOT STEAL THE BUTTON WHEN:
1. You have a poor hand and you sense someone else has a
strong hand.
2. You think someone to your left will call a raise no
matter what (that defeats the purpose).
The MOST IMPORTANT lesson you can get from all this is to
realize that winning poker depends on ALL THE LITTLE THINGS.
Stealing the button is just a little technique for setting
yourself up for better positioning... it's not a "game
changing" strategy that will double your poker profits or
anything.
But when you combine it with ALL THE OTHER LITTLE THINGS--
like establishing the right table image, throwing out feeler
bets, representing the flop at the right times, buying free
cards, picking up betting patterns, spotting tells, and
more-- then you will become a DYNAMIC and POWERFUL poker
player...
AND THEN your poker profits will double.
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