I have been asked if Internet Poker is Rigged?, time and time again! What is your Opinion? I believe that I am a fairly intelligent person and I play poker online at least 5-6 hrs per day. I have played at just about every online poker site there is currently on the net. There are only a few sites that I personally play at on a regular basis. I try out every poker site personally before I offer any of my members an opportunity to download them. I am a REAL MONEY player who wins about 70% of the time! So, I actually make a profit by playing poker online. Do I think its rigged? HMMMMMMM.....................Hell yes, I believe that most of the damn sites are rigged! I also believe that ever since any form of gambling was ever invented you will have CHEATS! The key to beating the Cheats is to be observant! and trap them at their own game. I know that many of you would say that there is no way that online poker is rigged and what is the purpose of it anyway? GREED is the reason! GREED, GREED, GREED. But hey, I love this game and rigged or not you will find me at the tables! LOL..................There are bad beats and then there is flat out rigged play. When a poker software stalls and the one and only card that can beat your hand pops out on the river to take your money, well Im sure you know what I mean!
But, I will be playing rigged or not, Form your own opinion and Keep playing or QUIT!
Cheers..............Masala
Saturday, February 17, 2007
Thursday, February 15, 2007
TEAM PLAY (Poker Tips)
Most players find it very awkward to switch from individual to team play.
Here are some hints:
At the start, you want to just gather chips as in any other tourny. But, against your team-mates, you often "take it easy". Against a team-mate you just check it down.
The important team-work really starts later. By then, if you are a chip leader, it is up to you to protect your short-stacked team members. The #1 key to success is keeping your fellow team-mates alive. It is the difference between winning and losing!
1. "Dump" chips to them. For instance, if you are small blind and they are big blind, and the table has folded. Most team members just fold their small blind. (thinking that is the best thing to do, for their short-stacked team-mate, give them the amount of their small blind by folding)
But it is even better to call, then fold. That way that short-stacked team member really gets to benefit, because you just gave him the amount of the full blind. This should be a standard procedure, so the short-stacked big blind should EXPECT you to call and then fold.
2. If a team member goes all in and the entire table folds, then you must fold too. Do it!
For instance, in a recent team game, a team-mate raised all in with KK, the entire table folded, except his fellow team-mate as the big blind.
All this player had to do was fold (for the team). They had tons of chips and NO REASON TO CALL! But, they did call, and with Q 8 off!! Q on flop and 8 on turn and 8 the river! Knocked out their own team-mate with his KK! So sad! Our team lost that game!
Be careful playing on PD. Often we are playing more than one game at a time, and we hit "check call any" and end up calling our poor team-mate by accident! Or, we aren't paying enough attention to who just went all in and we call!
This just happened to me recently.
My team member raised all-in with J 2 off, and expected me to fold, but with QK suited, and playing 2 games at once, I did not take the time to think it through, to realize that this was my team-mate! I clicked on call! Dumb Me!!! I took him out of the game!
3. If you do have the "nuts" and you have a short stacked team-mate as the small blind. Raise them. That is their signal to fold and save their chips. If you just call, and then they "complete" that small blind, they are wasting their chips. Because then they are going to have to fold later. Why let them waste those chips! So use this "signal" to let your team-mate know to fold.
4. This is another team move. If it is your big blind and entire table folds except a short stacked team-mate, and they just "call", FOLD! Even though they did not raise, if you have a lot of chips, just fold to them preflop. They need those chips. And this is also standard procedure. Do not make them see that flop, just fold.
5. If a team mate is short stacked and raises all-in and IS CALLED by a bunch of the other team's players and you have really good cards and lots of chips, CALL THEM! Better that you take their chips and knock them out, rather than letting those from the other team get those chips, and knock them out.
6. Most time, we win or lose in "spurts". If someone has previously "dumped" a lot of chips to you earlier, and now everything you play "turns to gold", and the other team-mates are short, do not forget to "dump" chips back to them! A lot of team players forget to dump back!
This is a key thing!! In a recent game only a few of us played "team poker" while our "team-mates" played for themselves. "Individual poker" does not work in "team" games.
Previously, I had "dumped" too many of my chips to the team members that were playing their usual individual poker game. They never "dumped" back to me or to anyone else. So we lost.
Unless you are committed to the team and the team's win, (not your win), it is not worth your time or effort to try to "team play". It takes a ton of patience and practice to always put your team players first. And unless the team works well together your team will lose.
Hope this helps everyone and that I explained it all OK.
By JMachelor @ LSP
Here are some hints:
At the start, you want to just gather chips as in any other tourny. But, against your team-mates, you often "take it easy". Against a team-mate you just check it down.
The important team-work really starts later. By then, if you are a chip leader, it is up to you to protect your short-stacked team members. The #1 key to success is keeping your fellow team-mates alive. It is the difference between winning and losing!
1. "Dump" chips to them. For instance, if you are small blind and they are big blind, and the table has folded. Most team members just fold their small blind. (thinking that is the best thing to do, for their short-stacked team-mate, give them the amount of their small blind by folding)
But it is even better to call, then fold. That way that short-stacked team member really gets to benefit, because you just gave him the amount of the full blind. This should be a standard procedure, so the short-stacked big blind should EXPECT you to call and then fold.
2. If a team member goes all in and the entire table folds, then you must fold too. Do it!
For instance, in a recent team game, a team-mate raised all in with KK, the entire table folded, except his fellow team-mate as the big blind.
All this player had to do was fold (for the team). They had tons of chips and NO REASON TO CALL! But, they did call, and with Q 8 off!! Q on flop and 8 on turn and 8 the river! Knocked out their own team-mate with his KK! So sad! Our team lost that game!
Be careful playing on PD. Often we are playing more than one game at a time, and we hit "check call any" and end up calling our poor team-mate by accident! Or, we aren't paying enough attention to who just went all in and we call!
This just happened to me recently.
My team member raised all-in with J 2 off, and expected me to fold, but with QK suited, and playing 2 games at once, I did not take the time to think it through, to realize that this was my team-mate! I clicked on call! Dumb Me!!! I took him out of the game!
3. If you do have the "nuts" and you have a short stacked team-mate as the small blind. Raise them. That is their signal to fold and save their chips. If you just call, and then they "complete" that small blind, they are wasting their chips. Because then they are going to have to fold later. Why let them waste those chips! So use this "signal" to let your team-mate know to fold.
4. This is another team move. If it is your big blind and entire table folds except a short stacked team-mate, and they just "call", FOLD! Even though they did not raise, if you have a lot of chips, just fold to them preflop. They need those chips. And this is also standard procedure. Do not make them see that flop, just fold.
5. If a team mate is short stacked and raises all-in and IS CALLED by a bunch of the other team's players and you have really good cards and lots of chips, CALL THEM! Better that you take their chips and knock them out, rather than letting those from the other team get those chips, and knock them out.
6. Most time, we win or lose in "spurts". If someone has previously "dumped" a lot of chips to you earlier, and now everything you play "turns to gold", and the other team-mates are short, do not forget to "dump" chips back to them! A lot of team players forget to dump back!
This is a key thing!! In a recent game only a few of us played "team poker" while our "team-mates" played for themselves. "Individual poker" does not work in "team" games.
Previously, I had "dumped" too many of my chips to the team members that were playing their usual individual poker game. They never "dumped" back to me or to anyone else. So we lost.
Unless you are committed to the team and the team's win, (not your win), it is not worth your time or effort to try to "team play". It takes a ton of patience and practice to always put your team players first. And unless the team works well together your team will lose.
Hope this helps everyone and that I explained it all OK.
By JMachelor @ LSP
Monday, February 12, 2007
A viewers Comments(Ring Games)
Ring Game action has really jumped at Cakepoker here are some tips to improve your game at a ring table.
The key to table selection is having a good seat at a great table. Beware, there is such a thing as a bad seat at a great table.
Look at games with 6-8 players and a large pot size. I do this so I'm less likely to join a game that's already been filled, I get a choice of a couple seats at the table and games that are a little short handed punish the fast 'n loose players less harshly.
Before I join a game, I look at stacks and limpers (hard to squeeze blood from a stone.) If there are too many stacks under $12, it's not worth my time. In the first 2 hands I watch I want to see more than 2 limpers outside of the blinds or a fair raise with 2 callers. I want to play against players that take the adage "any hand can win" too far. I also look for betting that's a little wild. Generally, I only look at a hand or two before claiming a seat (I don't want to have my target fill up or loose the best seat!)
When taking a seat, ideally I want position on tall to moderate stacks and loose/aggressive players. I want to give position a short stack or a very tight player. No point in having position on someone that won't be playing many hands or doesn't have the chips to pay me off. Also having position on a somewhat manic player allows me to hide behind their bets and waste less money folding weak positions to them after betting/limping.
Generally, I post a newbie blind unless I'm 2 or fewer hands away from my big blind. I get right into the action, but am quick to leave if I don't like what I see. The first time around the table I'm looking at who's calling raises, who's weak, etc. I'll get a little more aggressive with pre-flop raises to feel out the table (well worth the $1.5 IMHO to raise a hand I might otherwise limp in with to get this information.)
Signs I'm at a the right table: * Multiple players limping in * Position on a loose and aggressive player * Players calling raises after trying to limp with weak hands * Players showing weak hands outside of the blinds (Ace-little off suit, unsuited connectors, etc.) * Outrageous raises on top quality hands (so I know when to fold.) * Players limping or only raising to $1 with top quality hands
It's probably time to find another table when: * 1 or fewer players limp a couple times in a series of 8-10 hands. Getting down to just the blinds is a very bad sign. * Maniac with position on me by 1 or 2 seats. Dealing with his (reprises can be trying and the check + call counter to that is a pain. Also, I'm less likely to be the last to act when I'm in late position, but don't have the button. * I can't pick out the weak players at the table * Many of the weak players go all-in on a single hand suicide pact, then several leave. * Multiple strong/tight players. Particularly filling seats left by weak players. * No one is calling my pre-flop raises with weak hands. If I can regularly take the blinds with a $2 pre-flop raise, I'm probably at the wrong table. * I have position on the short stacks.
By Bucnright @ FRT
The key to table selection is having a good seat at a great table. Beware, there is such a thing as a bad seat at a great table.
Look at games with 6-8 players and a large pot size. I do this so I'm less likely to join a game that's already been filled, I get a choice of a couple seats at the table and games that are a little short handed punish the fast 'n loose players less harshly.
Before I join a game, I look at stacks and limpers (hard to squeeze blood from a stone.) If there are too many stacks under $12, it's not worth my time. In the first 2 hands I watch I want to see more than 2 limpers outside of the blinds or a fair raise with 2 callers. I want to play against players that take the adage "any hand can win" too far. I also look for betting that's a little wild. Generally, I only look at a hand or two before claiming a seat (I don't want to have my target fill up or loose the best seat!)
When taking a seat, ideally I want position on tall to moderate stacks and loose/aggressive players. I want to give position a short stack or a very tight player. No point in having position on someone that won't be playing many hands or doesn't have the chips to pay me off. Also having position on a somewhat manic player allows me to hide behind their bets and waste less money folding weak positions to them after betting/limping.
Generally, I post a newbie blind unless I'm 2 or fewer hands away from my big blind. I get right into the action, but am quick to leave if I don't like what I see. The first time around the table I'm looking at who's calling raises, who's weak, etc. I'll get a little more aggressive with pre-flop raises to feel out the table (well worth the $1.5 IMHO to raise a hand I might otherwise limp in with to get this information.)
Signs I'm at a the right table: * Multiple players limping in * Position on a loose and aggressive player * Players calling raises after trying to limp with weak hands * Players showing weak hands outside of the blinds (Ace-little off suit, unsuited connectors, etc.) * Outrageous raises on top quality hands (so I know when to fold.) * Players limping or only raising to $1 with top quality hands
It's probably time to find another table when: * 1 or fewer players limp a couple times in a series of 8-10 hands. Getting down to just the blinds is a very bad sign. * Maniac with position on me by 1 or 2 seats. Dealing with his (reprises can be trying and the check + call counter to that is a pain. Also, I'm less likely to be the last to act when I'm in late position, but don't have the button. * I can't pick out the weak players at the table * Many of the weak players go all-in on a single hand suicide pact, then several leave. * Multiple strong/tight players. Particularly filling seats left by weak players. * No one is calling my pre-flop raises with weak hands. If I can regularly take the blinds with a $2 pre-flop raise, I'm probably at the wrong table. * I have position on the short stacks.
By Bucnright @ FRT
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